I can hardly believe that in a few weeks I'll be in Rome. Even though I'll only be in the Eternal City for a few days total (before and after my cruise), I still chose to read at least one book about the city for every day I'll be there. Two of my favorites were
Four Seasons in Rome by Anthony Doerr and
As the Romans Do by Alan Epstein. Written in very different styles and covering different topics, the books were a wonderful complement to one another.

The full title of Anthony Doerr's short travelogue is
Four Seasons in Rome: On Twins, Insomnia, and the Biggest Funeral in the History of the World. Anthony's wife gives birth to twin boys on the same day that he finds out he has been selected for a prestigious one-year fellowship in Rome. Talk about everything happening at once. Bravely, the new family decides to make the journey and they move to Rome (a place neither of the parents had been) with six-month old twins for a fantastic adventure. The book captures not only the chaos, awe, confusion and charm that the Doerr's face as American transplants in Italy, but the extra-added bonus of being sleep-deprived parents of infant twins (all the while, one, the author, is there to work on writing a novel). I found the book very poetic and charming. There were historical facts woven into the writing, but for the most part, it was a chronicle of the family's journey and experience of Rome. The author's attempt to experience and grapple with the distinct ways and charms of Italians. The family was living in Rome when Pope John Paul passed away and being able to witness the spectacle, the pilgrimage of millions to Vatican City and Rome must have been an amazing site. Doerr describes it, and everything, with care and love.
Favorite passage: "We came to Rome because we'd always regret it if we didn't, because every timidity eventually turns into regret. But the enormity of what I don't know about this place never ceases to amaze me...Rome is beautiful, Rome is ugly. Something about this city exacerbates contrasts, the incongruities and contradictions, a Levi's billboard ripping on the facade of a four-hundred-year-old church, a drunk sleeping on the tram in $300 shoes...It's like America before coffee was "to go," when a playground was a patch of gravel, some cigarette butts, and an uninspected swing set; when everybody smoked; when businesses in your neighborhood were owned by people who lived in your neighborhood; when children still stood on the front seats of moving cars and spread their fingers across the dash...It's a place where stoplights are open to interpretation, lattes should never be ordered after lunch, and a man is not considered a failure if he's forty years old and still spinning dough in a pizzeria...'Though you are a whole world, Rome,' Goethe wrote in 1790, 'still, without love, the world's not the world, Rome cannot be Rome.' A spring night is a power that sweeps through the crowded sheaves of blooming tulips and pours into your heart like a river."

Epstein's book
As the Romans Do was as informative as Doerr's was poetic. Like Doerr, Epstein and his wife and their two sons decided to move to Rome - live the dream of so many other ex pats currently residing in the country. Granted, Epstein's sons weren't infants; it was still a move that took guts (and one that I admire, only because I would wish to one day do it). This book was both a decent piece of travel writing, but a very informative guide for someone about to visit the city. The pages I turned down in this book were notable, not for the lyrical content contained within, but for the helpful tips. Things I learned?
- You will pay more for your meal / drink if you sit down at a caffe, rather than order at the bar and stand like the locals do.
- Good luck making photocopies
- You better ALWAYS have the exact change - otherwise a simple purchase can turn into a three-hour, five-transaction affair
- Public drinking fountains are also called nasones and have some of the most delicious public water in the world (if you can figure out how to drink from them)
- Be prepared to eat. Period.
These books were so helpful and really made me itch (even more than I already was) to get to Rome and experience it and its people. It seems like a fascinating cultural experience and I can't wait to try some of my very carefully practiced Italian phrases.
I only wish I had more time! There's always the next trip ;)